Booking an Irrigation System Optimization

With a few simple parts, some cut pipe and a bit of glue, we can start the transformation from overhead sprays to drip irrigation. Our gardens are irrigated almost exclusively with drip irrigation. The lines run between the soil and mulch layer, meaning none of your irrigation water is wasted through evaporation from on top of the mulch. Water is concentrated around the root zones of the plants, and even in a sparsely planted garden we can focus the water delivery precisely where we need it. Drip irrigation has excellent utility on sloped areas as well.

Industry standard and municipal code require that a double check backflow preventer be installed in all irrigation systems. These critical pieces of hardware are serviceable and can be repaired, and they are also testable, which we recommend having done annually. These heavy pieces of brass stop water from your irrigation pipes flowing backwards into the domestic supply, thereby contaminating your house water and that of the community. Many homes still have the old dual check backflow preventer installed, which is neither serviceable (you can’t fix it) nor testable, so you cannot test to ensure it is working.

There are times we recommend upgrading the controller, either to allow for the installation of a rain sensor, allow for system expansion, or simply to move this critical piece of equipment into the 21st century. These aren’t necessarily expensive upgrades and can greatly improve the operation of your system with efficient and convenient functions.

Adding a rain sensor is one of our top system optimizations. It’s an incredibly cost-effective upgrade and can save hundreds of dollars of water use annually. A rain sensor can either be wireless or wired, depending on its location and the type of controller in use. They are designed to shut the irrigation system off in a rain event to prevent the wasting of water. Once the sensor dries down, the watering cycle will resume as normal.

When an irrigation system forms mist during operation, it's a clear indicator that the pressure in the system is too high. This is a huge waste of water, as the fine droplets will blow away in the wind. Reducing the water pressure will solve this problem and start saving you money. Depending on the situation, a pressure regulator can be installed right on the main line or installed on one or more problem zones. We can also replace existing spray bodies with pressure-compensating spray bodies. The number and size of the irrigation zones will inform our recommendations.

One of the most common problems we discover with overhead sprays is what’s referred to as “low head drainage.” This is where an entire irrigation zone will drain uselessly out of the lowest head(s) in the landscape, meaning that every time that zone turns on, the pipes need to be charged (i.e., filled with water) all over again before they begin to operate normally. It cannot be overstated what a colossal waste of water this is! The solution is check-valve pop up spray bodies. These spray bodies have a spring-loaded check-valve in the bottom that holds back the water, not allowing it to drain once the watering cycle is finished. This means your pipes remain charged and the water you’re paying for (or harvesting or drawing from the ground) is used effectively and efficiently.

Increased efficiency and better distribution uniformity can sometimes be achieved with the simple replacement of a spray nozzle.

Irrigation valves are the gates that allow water to flow from the water source through your irrigation zones. We will look at your solenoid valve function and overall condition to ensure they are in good working condition.

Every area in an irrigation zone should be receiving the same amount of water to be considered efficient. Poor D.U. wastes water, can stress plant material, and greatly reduces the overall value and effectiveness of your irrigation system. It is quite common for us to add, remove, or relocate an irrigation head to achieve a higher D.U.